bostontoistanbul

August 17, 2002

Bosphorus Ferry Tour up to the Black Sea

North from Istanbul in the Rain

Jesse and Evie got up on the early side for a Saturday and made their way to the Kadikoy ferry to Eminonu, the main ferry station in the Old City (European side). The day was a bit hazy, like most days. We happily paid our 5 million Turkish Lira apiece (about $3 US) for the six-hour municipal ferry tour up the Bosphorus to the mouth of the Black Sea and back. We were already on the boat when the rain came! The fog and rain changed the experience, but did not decrease the impressiveness of this straight which divides Europe from Asia and connects the Black Sea (Kara Deniz) to the Sea of Marmara and the Mediterranean.

Striking on the ride up were the two towering and modern suspension bridges, under which we passed, with sheets of water coming off them. Also the coastlines on both sides are beautiful, dotted with houses perched on wooded hills, as well as beautiful and expensive yalis, houses built right on the water.

As we went past the bridges and around the gentle turns in the Bosphorus, we stopped at a few tiny villages. One of the cutest was little Kanlica, famous for its delicious yoghurt. The cafe staff on the ferry took on a case of fresh Kanlica yoghurt, and then went around the ferry selling it, mixed with powdered sugar. Yum!

Lunch in Anadolu Kavagi

As we got nearer to the Black Sea and further from the density and wealth of Istanbul, the villages became smaller and more rural fishing villages. We could see the mouth of the Black Sea.

We stopped for lunch at the tiny fishing village of Anadolu Kavagi, overlooking the Bosphorus. During a delicious meal of fresh local fish and mussels, many supertankers passed.

Back down to Istanbul, but with sunshine

The return trip to Istanbul was more beautiful, since the sun finally came out. We sat on the rear upper deck, with over 180 degrees of the boats wake and the passing sights. First, some last views of the fishing village and the Black Sea mouth:

More yalis:

The bridges and the old Fortress of Europe castle, built in 1452 before the invasion of Constanantinople. Notice how close the ancient castle is to the 2nd Bosphorus bridge (if you look closely in the first picture, you can see the tower of the 1st bridge further South).

And as Istanbul becomes visible again, we see the picturesque Ortakoy Mosque sitting right below the 1st bridge. Also, we pass close to the 19th century decadent Dolmabahce Palace.

Despite the rain, this was a great trip, and it cost less than $20 US, including lunch! What a special place this is. Too bad we have to work...

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