North from Istanbul in the Rain
Jesse and Evie got up on the early side for a
Saturday and made their way to the Kadikoy ferry to Eminonu,
the main ferry station in the Old City (European side). The
day was a bit hazy, like most days. We happily paid our 5 million
Turkish Lira apiece (about $3 US) for the six-hour municipal
ferry tour up the Bosphorus to the mouth of the Black Sea and
back. We were already on the boat when the rain came! The fog
and rain changed the experience, but did not decrease the impressiveness
of this straight which divides Europe from Asia and connects
the Black Sea (Kara Deniz) to the Sea of Marmara and the Mediterranean.
Striking on the ride up were the two towering
and modern suspension bridges, under which we passed, with sheets
of water coming off them. Also the coastlines on both sides
are beautiful, dotted with houses perched on wooded hills, as
well as beautiful and expensive yalis, houses built right
on the water.
As we went past the bridges and around the gentle turns in
the Bosphorus, we stopped at a few tiny villages. One of the
cutest was little Kanlica, famous for its delicious yoghurt.
The cafe staff on the ferry took on a case of fresh Kanlica
yoghurt, and then went around the ferry selling it, mixed with
powdered sugar. Yum!
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Lunch in Anadolu Kavagi
As we got nearer to the Black Sea and further from the density
and wealth of Istanbul, the villages became smaller and more
rural fishing villages. We could see the mouth of the Black
Sea.
We stopped for lunch at the tiny fishing village of Anadolu
Kavagi, overlooking the Bosphorus. During a delicious meal of
fresh local fish and mussels, many supertankers passed.
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Back down to Istanbul, but with sunshine
The return trip to Istanbul was more beautiful, since the sun
finally came out. We sat on the rear upper deck, with over 180
degrees of the boats wake and the passing sights. First, some
last views of the fishing village and the Black Sea mouth:
More yalis:
The bridges and the old Fortress of Europe castle, built
in 1452 before the invasion of Constanantinople. Notice how
close the ancient castle is to the 2nd Bosphorus bridge (if
you look closely in the first picture, you can see the tower
of the 1st bridge further South).
And as Istanbul becomes visible again, we see the picturesque
Ortakoy Mosque sitting right below the 1st bridge. Also, we
pass close to the 19th century decadent Dolmabahce Palace.
Despite the rain, this was a great trip, and it cost less than
$20 US, including lunch! What a special place this is. Too bad
we have to work...
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