A Perfect Day-Trip: Istanbul's Princes' Islands

Like Boston, Istanbul is lucky to have a set of peaceful and beautiful islands right off-shore. The Princes' Islands are located in the Sea of Marmara, just off the Asian Shore. Click here to see them on a map. They are served by regular ferries from both European and Asian sides. We had heard they make a great day-trip. On a free saturday, we arranged to meet Brendan and Tracey Williams, a Fulbright couple from Seattle, at the ferry dock in Bostanci, just south of us.

The ferry ride was beautiful, stopping at each of the four islands. Many people got on and off at each island; the islands are popular, and each have permanent residents, many of whom commute to Istanbul.

The islands from Bostanci on the Asian shore.	A simitci waiting to board the ferry to sell his simit to the passengers.

The best feature of the islands was already noticable: silence. Istanbul is one of the noisiest cities, and constant honking is a part of driving. The islands, on the other hand, are car-free!!

When we got to Buyukada (meaning "big island"), we got off the ferry and discovered a peaceful pedestrian paradise. Besides walking, the other modes of transport on the island are bicylces and horse carriages, which serve as the taxis on the island. After a relaxing lunch in the pier square, we rented bicyles for 2 million TL (about $1.20) per hour, and managed to circle the entire island in a few hours. It was a beautiful, peaceful ride, with gorgeous coastal views of the Sea of Marmara and Istanbul.

Buyukada waterfront (the ferry terminal is on the left)

Buyukada taxis

Tracey, Evie and Brendan on the Buyuk Yolu (big tour) of the island

After we completed the perimeter bikeride, we walked up a very steep cobblestone path to the top of the tallest hill, site of the Aya Yorgi Church. This is a Greek Orthadox church that attracts Christian pilgrims from all over. The view was the real draw for us: we could see the full Asian coast of Istanbul, the other islands, and more. Although it was hazy, it was fun to locate the high-rise apartments of our neighborhood, Atasehir.

View to the Northwest, the other islands	View to the Northeast, the Asian suburbs.
Through the haze we could make out the 8 high-rise apartments on Atasehir bulvari (2 green, 4 orange, 2 green).

This island was a perfect escape, so close to the city yet a world apart. No honking, just the clip-clop of hooves. The islands have been a get-away for the wealthy of Istanbul, dotted with gorgeous wooden mansions, many with turrets at the top for taking in the views. In addition, the islands have also been a haven for Armenians, Jews and other non-Moslems. We saw synagogues and Armenian Catholic churches. In fact, one of guidebooks we read said that the majority of the population is still Jewish.

After our bikeride and climb, we enjoyed hanging out at the waterfront, and then taking the leisurely ferry-ride home, catching some pretty sunset action and many hungry sea-gulls. Buyukada is a very nice day-trip, and a great resource for a big, overcrowded city.